When it comes to selecting the right fly rod, there is a bewildering array of choices. Length, weight (or more correctly, power), action, material, and budget all come into play. Here are some considerations that should help you make the right choice.
Weight / Power:
While it might seem like a simple choice, selecting the weight of a fly rod requires careful consideration. You’ll need to think not only about the species you are targeting but also about the flies you will be throwing. For example, most trout rods sold in the USA are 5-weight 9-foot rods (in New Zealand, the go-to rod is a 9ft 6-weight). However, if you tend to throw larger weighted cone-head woolly buggers and heavily weighted nymphs, the rod required to get the job done will be quite different from that used to present delicate dry flies and emergers.
Big flies require heavier, more aggressively tapered fly lines and stouter fly rods. Small dries are best cast with fuller-flexing rods that load up in close.
The trick is to not only select for species but also to consider the flies and type of fly line you will be predominantly using.
Length:
All things being equal, longer fly rods (9ft +) are better for mending line and getting that all-important drag-free drift. A longer rod also acts as a longer lever, and assuming you are a competent caster, this will help you gain some distance. However, long rods are difficult to manage on small streams, particularly those overgrown with tree cover and bushes.
Short rods tend to be more accurate and make for easier casting on small streams with obstructions.
Action:
Fly rod action generally refers to how the rod bends and where it first starts to bend under a given load—this is called the lockup point. You may have heard fly rods referred to as stiff, fast, soft, or slow. Tip action, mid action, or butt action are also common terms.
Stiff rods do not cast any further than slow rods—that’s all down to the caster’s ability. Stiff rods resist bending more than slow rods, and for this reason, they require more mass outside the tip to perform. These rods are better suited to casting weighted flies, longer, heavier lines, and are typically better for saltwater fly fishing and windy conditions.
Softer, slower fly rods tend to load up at closer distances and require less mass outside the tip to perform. They are easier to cast, easier on the fish, and easier on fly casters. They also do a much better job of protecting light tippets. If you want to go dry and fine, grab a softer fly rod.
Material:
Fiberglass or Carbon Fiber?
Fiberglass rods have made a big comeback. Old-style E-glass rods are inexpensive, tough, but heavy, and are full-flexing. Compared to more modern glass composites, they are not particularly accurate. They also tend to have much higher swing weights and are not as precise. “Cheap and cheerful” is where they sit.
More modern S-glass and S2 glass materials deliver the benefits of ‘glass’ without the cumbersome weight. Their swing weights tend to be lower, and overall they are far more responsive and accurate than their cheap E-glass predecessors.
Modern glass composites, such as the FastGlass® material and tapers used in Epic Fly Rods, are light, responsive, and extremely tough. They are worlds apart from the lower quality glass rods sold by most manufacturers.
Carbon fiber—referred to as graphite in the US market—is a lightweight, rigid composite well-suited to fly rod construction. Although taper plays a significant role, carbon rods tend to be lighter, stiffer, and more responsive than glass composite rods. The downside to carbon fiber is that, compared to glass, they are not nearly as tough or durable, making them more prone to breakage.
Carbon rods are great for stiffer rods at longer lengths and two-handed rods. Glass is not the material for a big two-hander! However, glass rods are terrific in smaller sizes and at the other end of the scale in heavier rods due to their durability and resistance to breaking.
Budget:
It’s pretty simple—buy the best quality fly rod you can afford. Buying cheap doesn’t pay. Budget fly rods are not only built on cheap blanks, but they also have inferior quality reel seats and guides. Their overall construction is inferior. Guide wraps can be of poor quality, leading to rusted guides. Reel seats and grips also tend to deteriorate quickly.
